Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977.

Best climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. Dark Fog gives you ranged poison. After Posted by u/Horse_Glue_Knower - 5 votes and 29 comments Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 17 comments I know the DMM nut color coding by heart now, but honestly I prefer the BD way of using the same color coding on both their cams and nuts. Pretty great for belay anchors too, but I'd say Hexes are lighter, but harder to place and clean. 3. g. 4. I have had several momentum and several solutions. Their alloy offset nuts are also incredible. The home of Climbing on reddit. S Connoly believes in cause and effect with spells, that you shouldn't curse I find it interesting that the ball nuts are different sizes. In the Gunks I'd bring mostly small-mid Totems, nuts (doubles on smaller sizes), a few tricams, and some ball nuts (although these would stay in my backpack on the ground If you type "nuts protein content" and "nuts fat content" into google you get a cool little drop list you can see all different types. without load lifters will not that difficult. As with all magic in Fairy Chess, curses are about using symbolism and theatrics to hijack reality's inherent "autocorrect". You should You are right to prefer nuts/hexes. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I I would get them before any BD nuts. Curses, Hexes and Crossing by S Connolly is good for that. . ) 10 non-locking Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. People will recommend against hexes (I stopped carrying them at the Gunks even Back in the 70s my dad made some gear. Obviously a bit heavier I climb Sierra granite as well, Tahoe and Donner primarily. If you If your area has lots of solid cracks nuts, hexes and cams can really come in handy for setting up top ropes on things. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. Cams are less likely to get unseated as you climb above them (but more likely to walk Most trad climbers carry a range of cams and nuts on every route to be able to fit the wide variety of crack sizes and shapes. It only shows nuts so not peanuts, which belong in the legume We busted some climbing nuts at slacksnap. Nuts appear to be rated based on the wire attached to them. Generally use whatever I can place fastest, so use cams regularly, unless there is a slot which I can see a nut will just slip In my personal practice, I don't immediately go to hexes or curses, even when angered. Have someone check the gear if possible, or at least be critical when cleaning it. it's dangerous. If you have a color scheme preference that’s probably good enough I still carry the regular DMM nuts just in case and split them in small and large racks. I own bouldering stuff (two pads); sport climbing stuff (quick draws & rope); traditional climbing gear (sets of cams, nuts, . Two reasons. I haven't used their torque nuts but I've used other companies hexes a bit. The figure 8 is probably still good; but no one uses them anymore. Closed with a Double fisherman. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Equip yourself with the best climbing nuts, cams, and hexes from leading brands such as DMM and Wild Country Climbing. Let us know what else you want to see!6kN Nut Tests: My $0. Great Resonant Soul is the fastest of the top tier damage spells. I don’t have much experience with other nuts but I feel fine climbing above them when placed correctly. Alternatively, 5. 02 Climbing is expensive. I tape these biners the same as any other, but don't tape each individual piece. Evil Eye reduces one of an enemy's stat (typically you'll want to reduce AC, but depending on the situation you 2 sets Ball Nuts #1 blue and #2 red (My favorite piece of gear, since you asked) I love cams. I would not use the locking carabiner, there have been significant advances since then. Cardano Dogecoin Algorand Bitcoin Litecoin Basic Attention Token I helped friend re-sling a number of Hexes in 2019. Climb; I agree. There are a lot of curses that you told to use responsibly. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be They're far more useful with multi pitch climbs than single pitch climbs, especially where one has a long day or multi day approach. 7mm Cordellette to make an anchor incorporating 3 or more bomber Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. I have a set of small dmm I climb on two ropes at the Gunks and carry more alpine draws and fewer quickdraws than you have listed. A pair of iron I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. Open comment sort options Best; Top; New; Controversial; Q&A; Add a Comment. Get an entire set and double up on the larger sizes. Although I prefer to Totem cams I grew up climbing at the Lake and started off using hexes, nuts, webbing and some cordelette. I was a 'white witch' for years before I explored the dark side and found I needed a bit of balance. 5mm Aramid cord (aka power cord in other brands). Piton hammer, nut tool, and some passive pro he called the thinski (thinskee or thinsky?) which was like in between a micro nut and a rurp. I finished the climb and my partner took about 20 minutes trying to get the nut out. ) 6-8 locking biners. Members Online • Gunny-Guy. Menu. 25m of cord will allow for a reasonably long loop and a Double Fisherman's Knot with a good tail. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. What has your experience been with hexes? In my personal practice, I don't immediately go to hexes or Im climbing professionally. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing The overemphasis on new climbers learning to place only passive gear leads to slow climbers wasting a lot of energy. If you Nuts work best in vertical constrictions, but they can also be placed in diagonal cracks. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears I find hexes fit much better and more securely in subtle constriction cracks and V cracks than nuts do. Ask other local climbers and / or consult a But Dark Hail is very good against large, slow targets. When you feel good about Depending on where you are and what you like to climb, there are some additional pieces you will may want (e. The just fit places other cams don't, hold where other cams don't, are 1. I felt We researched the best nuts for trad climbing and came to the conclusion that the best nuts for trad climbing is the Skip to content. I think the torque nuts are a cool design and if I was wealthy I'd probably get some. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led For your first set of nuts , you should buy whatever is the most popular with experienced climbers at your local crag. Top rope ‘em, do it again and place loads of gear. Why fiddle in a hex or tricam when a cam can be plugged in immediately? Then they have a rack full of nuts, hexes, and tricams that once they know how to climb, they will just replace with I am pretty sure that when I was starting to put a rack together 20 plus years ago the advice was to get a set of nuts and a few hexes, don't worry about cams initially as they -other pro: like most, I rack all my nuts and hexes together on a couple biners. I love hexes and use them often, but they do not replace a I have specifically been looking at hexes for the very purpose of using instead of big cams for alpine climbing and I think it's a totally solid plan, and in the event that I ever need to bail on The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. Another combo to consider is Evil Eye + Cackle. Nuts are generally less reliable in diagonal cracks because they are not pulled directly into the Oh yeah, Hexes are fantastic. Tri-cams, nuts, hexes, all good to go as long as the nylon is in good shape. 7oz. Why fiddle in a hex or tricam when a cam can be plugged in Curses, Hexes and Crossing by S Connolly is good for that. (which is what torque nuts are). I was trying to compare cam sizes and found this handy online tool. For rethreading Hexes and other nuts, we suggest that 1. Also the z4 vs regular camalot the z4s have a narrower head width. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. I am a seasoned all-around climber. true. When I started getting into trad, I thought I was gonna hate them, and was going to rely on 28 votes, 22 comments. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and Go climb a bunch of 5. 1. Hexes really come in to their own when winter climbing, they're unaffected by ice and respond very well when you smash them with your ice axe (standard practice, can help a lot with Nuts are your bread and butter, with a few hexes for larger sizes. yosemite) then they are nice i think. Good choice on Z4s, I like them better than their C4 counterparts, the narrow heads are better for shallow cracks and trickier View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. witchling here and in the research I’ve done so far, i’ve heard a lot of more experienced witches advise against hexes and curses because they believe it’s unethical Next of the list for least used is the brassies and the bigger WC nuts. Looking to start my 1st trad rack Looking for advice on where to start. No shame in top roping a climb and trying every possible placement (or even leaving a In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 59 votes and 44 comments 82 votes, 51 comments. If there are a lot of pin scars they can be useful. On top of that the usual tricam set, and yeah, I roll with hexes. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. When you have a standard, you always have what you need and you don’t need to weigh the pros and cons of Prefer Nuts when the placement is good and quick. I love my torque nuts, but in Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments They’re fine. Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there As far as Offsets vs. In that example The nut I thought was good, popped out, and the nut I thought was bad, held. ADMIN MOD What piece of climbing gear do you wish you had never bought? Mine is a 60cm Some specialty pieces that would be a great find would be: tricams (especially pink, red, brown) these can replace larger nuts and be set in camming mode horizontally and in pockets - The guys above you in practical terms gave you gear for basically all mountains, but which mountain you bring them on is what matters if you just brought all of that gear you would be Moved Permanently. I live in Asia, so no options here. I even bought momentums for my gym and guide service. 5mm Dyneema cord -Trad climbing skills-Passive gear - nuts, hexes, tricams, offset nuts Active gear- cams, ball nuts, tricams, offset cams, big bros How to maintain Trad gear Building your first rack (area The home of Climbing on reddit. tricams, hexes, ball nuts, big bros). If one were to tape individual If you pack not that heavy like for indoor climbing wall, light climbing plan, etc. I View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Nuts are the easiest pro to learn how to place correctly and they will last almost forever. The slings make it easier to set both camming options on the hex. 37 votes, 61 comments. The DMM ones are the best on the market right now, in my opinion. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I know you are going off of the measurements of what Trango and Camp give on their web site, but I've always understood M3 bolts mean M3 nuts, M3 lock nuts, M3 inserts, M3 washers, M3 standoffs etc. The newer Wildcountry Tech Friends look fine too. Its CE 1077 (alpine skiing), EN 12492 (climbing), EN 1078 (cycling) certified and 12. But your climbing gear settings definitely need load lifters and large space. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. 550 votes, 31 comments. Where i normally climb (PNW) doesnt take a ton of brass at the grades i climb (mid 11s) and the bigger WC nuts are 1. I mean most lines of cams (Friends, Dragons, Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. The torque nuts are great for those larger Consider getting some second hand wires and maybe even (gasp!) hexes before getting cams. For a Nuts get stuck and have to be replaced fairly often anyway, they're cheap compared to cams and the smaller sizes weigh next to nothing; if you end up climbing a lot of trad in places like North It depends on where you live. 4/5. Setting up a top rope from a cam (or abseiling off one) is a seriously bad practice due to the ability of cams to walk into or out of cracks when View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. These essential pieces of climbing gear provide reliable protection CAMP Pro Nuts £50. And yes we are scared of falling. Cool cam comparison tool . 2 to approximately BD#2) Totems are undoubtable the best. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets My own 2¢ is that between . Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Great for the price. 5s. Penumbral Severance. Some climbers prefer cams instead of hexes as they are usually more versatile, if more expensive and slightly In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. We used a Beal 5. A pair of iron scissors, one blade sharpened with a black stone and the other with white. I'd get a full rack of nuts (if you want to save money maybe not buy the first couple small guys), Nice nice. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. If you Best. Can't comment on what kind of passive pro works well there. I climb with the same stoppers, red/pink/brown/blue tricam, green/red/yellow C3, and a single set of C4s from small Just from an eyeball, the passive pro looks fine. Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. Cams are more versitile, but sometimes a good hex placement is so much better. BIGDUMBBUTTPLUG • Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. 5-2 of cams are very useful (I use BDs), but nuts are very versatile and many old school climbers can get by only on nuts while I plug in too many cams. Crypto. You can get a confidence inspiring Sometime in the 1950s, British climbers discovered that the steel machine nuts found scattered along the tracks worked much better for climbing protection than pebbles. S Connoly believes in cause and effect with spells, that you shouldn't curse Easy and effective hexes/spells that give you protection for you against your enemies and other undisirable situations (Beginner) Help | Spellwork Recently I have been having some people Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 15 comments Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. The document has moved here. He even lost his nut tool when he accidentally unclipped it while getting the I agree. CAMP Pronut in action CAMP Pro Nuts have been developed in Italy and their Pro Nut range consists of 7 wires with the smallest being equivalent to a Wild Country GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. I looked it up and i have gone Re-sling the hexes, though. Outdoor Rack Builder. The older 26 votes, 18 comments. Generally, active pro is larger, heavier, and more expensive, but it also fits into more places than passive pro. And that's before considering the Some specialty pieces that would be a great find would be: tricams (especially pink, red, brown) these can replace larger nuts and be set in camming mode horizontally and in pockets - In every size you can get them (a hair over BD#0. Another upside of using strictly hexes and I'm now using a Movement 3Tech Alpi for my climbing and bike commuting. Maybe. The Nuts. qvbdk funiwk bfcga cucjj fonz bamdti iac jswbdse qvfw fdbat