Best carabiner for atc reddit. I use the smart alpine 2.

Best carabiner for atc reddit. 10 trad and 5. The Reverso is better than the ATC because of size and weight. and a bit choppy but I find you get used to it with time. Agree with this. but the Mammut Smart is lighter, cheaper and has no mechanical parts. I'm having trouble finding an answer to this question. 1. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. At the last belay course the local gym held we had a woman struggle a lot with her ATC XP locking up on the fuzzier gym ropes. Just looked this up to double check. I want one that I can keep on my harness to belay with using the atc or a munter and am considering the Edelrid Bulletproof with an auto locking gate and cross loading protection. What are your thoughts on using this in the snow? I've never used an auto locker in the snow. What’s the best way to rappel on a rad line? I know petzl says you can use a Reverso with 2 carabiners, or some people say using an atc alpine or microjul works, and some people even recommend a canyoneering plate like a Grivel scream, but none of these are assisted and you’d still need a backup/3rd hand, and it sounds like prusiks aren’t recommended (but some people use them anyway). Mago 8 and Scream are your best choices if you are going to be doing this often. Nov 29, 2024 · Auto-locking and screw carabiners offer distinct advantages for ATC use. P. But in order to provide the assisted-braking feature that makes the ATC competitive with the GriGri, users must carry two carabiners. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. The Jul on the other hand is an auto locking ATC style device and there is no argument against it being better. Exact same function, just lighter and smaller. I used the pilot a lot when I first got it. Petzl harness Black diamond ATC belay A few pear-ish shaped carabiners PAS Prusik rope Obviously still need some rope. Sometimes if I bring the microtraxion I just use that locker on my anchor if I need it. I found belaying pretty natural since I regularly use an ATC for both top rope and lead belaying. Was planning on static and waiting to buy till I have a few hikes nailed down for a trip in September so I have a better idea of rope length needed. But in the gym, where the environment is controlled and nothing is more than a pitch long, an ATC-XP is all you need. For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. r/onebag is an 'urban' travel community devoted to the idea of helping people lug around less crap; onebag travel. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. If you want to for sure prevent crossloading, an 8-shaped carabiner (e. It’s different than an atc but easy to learn and the assisted breaking is nice. 0 also and love it. I can't I use the smart alpine 2. See full list on climbinghouse. the black diamond Gridlock or mammut’s bionic crosslock carabiner) is your best bet. 11- sport. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. M. The home of Climbing on reddit. – Larger carabiner for use with manual rappelling devices to create more friction. How long has your BF been climbing? If he is newer and only top roping, I would lean towards getting him the ATC. In hindsight, Im not sure why i was so assertive that paliston was uiaa rated besides that i may have looked at a photo of a carabiner i thought was paliston and saw a uiaa label and jumped to conclusions. Works great with an ATC style or Figure 8 descender. As a gear nerd it was fun to try but it’s not the device to buy. I have magnetron paired with ATC just because roclock profile gives best friction control and it was so shiny and I absolutely needed one right then and there. Andy Kirkpatrick writes about how a Grigri can break a carabiner in a real-world scenario using examples of when it actually happened. Step 1: Leader arrives at (or builds) the anchor, places a locking carabiner, places the lead rope into this locking carabiner, and locks the carabiner! (This is masterpoint #1) Step 2: The leader takes the rope leading down to the belayer and attaches a Grigri to the belay loop of her harness with a locking carabiner in the usual way. But for a grigri, a small D-shaped carabiner is best. One of the best options for someone new to climbing, the Black Diamond Big Air Package comes with both an ATC and a locking carabiner, everything that you need to start belaying safely. KONG H. It's much the same as in the EpicTV video (Jul2 vs Pilot belay test) where he shows two methods to lower - one is to use your thumb to lift the device while having that hand still around the brake rope (same position as regular belaying with it), and the other is to pinch the device with thumb and two fingers. Apr 27, 2021 · The ATC-XP lacks a guide mode, so it won’t handle multi-pitch well. The motion is very similar to an ATC. The C. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. The ATC Guide is my all time favorite belay device. -you can reuse carabiners sitting on your harness. This is the best answer. Basically the Grigri can become loaded in such a way that fall force applies torque to the carabiner and the sheer force breaks the carabiner. A couple of times I have almost set up improperly with my belay loop and ATC in the same section of the biner. One could argue that they’d be carrying the carabiners anyways, in which case the ATC would be quite a bit lighter. Just like the ATC-Guide, it also lacks assisted braking. Many climbers recommend learning to belay on an ATC to build good habits. But then also: separate karabiners if you use a grigri and an ATC. g. The disadvantage is that because the load is shared more evenly between the spine side and the gate side (wh I have the pilot, atc, and a Grigri. 5 ounces (71g). . com Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Apr 24, 2022 · Kong H. As far as brands, the one you have pictured is made by Black Diamond, which is a very reputable climbing brand. It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. For Revo, idk. No reason to bring extra weight on carabiners. The Grigri is definitely smoother for lowering. USA Nano 22 will let you rack up without weighing you down on long trad multi-pitch and alpine climbs. Only issue I've had with it was finding a carabiner big enough where it wouldn't rotate in and get locked up with the rope. I used to have autolockers for everything at some point but then got into trad and alpine stuff and started to appreciate lightness and ease of use. Lowering can be quite finicky. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. For ATC, a smooth oval one is best. Petzl makes some good ones that’ll pair well with it. Though it could almost fool you with its extremely small and thin design, the Nano 22 is a full-strength climbing carabiner, and it is great for racking cams and other trad gear. Similar to keeping bolt end and rope end biners on draws separate. I’d suggest purchasing a locking carabiner along with the ATC (see link below) as your BF will need the carabiner as well. Learn about the pros and cons of each, and discover which type is the best fit for your climbing needs. That said, it stays at home because the grigri can do the same thing (better) and more. S. I use a Black Diamond Gridlock screwgate carabiner as my belay biner. Now that im looking more closely, it looks like there are no uiaa markings on the carabiners ive seen listed in amazon. I have tried the double carabiner trick, and in my experience it does not offer adequate additional friction with skinny ropes like this. And yes we are scared of falling. The grigri can put notches in the narrow end, which you then don't want abrading your belay loop when you're using an ATC. I say this even while I don’t care for it. I am looking for a new pair of carabiners to use with my ATC Guide. Additionally, the new Black Diamond ATC is 30% lighter, ensuring that you won’t have to carry any extra weight with you on your approach hike or multi-pitch -ATC in guide mode can be used for ascending. Provides plenty of friction for catching falls on skinnier topes, but still works great with thicker ones. The Jul is the best non mechanical device for mountaineering. Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. Best carabiner for using the Munter Hitch f… May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. If it’s more for occasional scrambling, then I would go with a super munter. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. This pic from the instruction manual shows my normal setup (left) and my accidental setup (right). Do you prefer to rappel from a double strand, eg a rope run through a ring at the halfway point with two strands going through an ATC guide? Or do you prefer to Figure-8-on-a-bight + Carabiner at the halfway point so it can't pass through the ring, rappel down a single strand using a GriGri/Fig8/ATC and pull the knotted side when you reach the ground? Dec 13, 2023 · The GriGri+ weighs 7 ounces (198g), while most ATC guides weigh about 2. I’ve been climbing about 5 years (trad for 5, sport for 3), and I climb up to 5. Just had to get another larger carabiner. A couple questions about carabiners for top-rope belaying Hi - If I missed this in the FAQ I apologize but don't remember seeing anything specifically on this. Works super smooth, and is easy to handle. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t May 17, 2025 · BEST FOR: LIGHTWEIGHT. Fewer items, packed into a single bag for ease of transport to make traveling simpler with more focus on the experience than the logistics. A. hrmmj wodxed sns adrlrfyg hivj tbokw xqrmqb gukvy hjwr fhdtvk